Monday, April 30, 2007

TODA Timing Belt For B16A



No, its not for me but i wish it was. Another of my brother's toy. I guessed the recent incident about timing belt snapping during high rev opened a few sleeping eyes. In my own opinion, to be be safe and cheap, change the original belt every 30,000km which also makes a year of driving. But if you plan to rev more than 8000rpm, think about it. Revving high at the racing rpm range you will need a stronger lasting belt. To be able to last in a race is better than to celebrate engine sparkling fireworks on the track.
Doesnt mean you use Power Belt or HKS Belt or even Gates it can last for many years. The difference between racing and street is you dont overhaul the engines every 2 weeks and change the timing belt every now and then. Wear and tear plus the temperature underneath the hood will increase the risk of belt snapping.
The best way to double check is to remove and flip it over. When you bend it, you will know from the threads how long its gonna last. Doesnt mean it stiffens up and harden its dead. You cant tell by just looking at it and pressing it with your fingers.
The belt is worth between RM400-550.


Speaking Of Rarity

I have seen green CE-28Ns and blue TE-37s. To find a green SSR Type-C is definitely one of a kind. I got this pic from the internet. Must have been a custom request before purchase.

Mivek40

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Major Mods On Someone's Car

Brand new TODA C2 Camshafts

Brand new TODA Valve Springs

Brand new TODA Cam Pulleys

Brand new SKUNK2 Retainers

Looks like everybody is modding. As matter a fact, American parts like SKUNK2 are proven and tested by our local consumers both drag and track. The few Malaysians that never use them like to say bad things about em. Prolly they couldnt afford em or the Japanese really sucked their mind up with this JDM thing. Ha ha. At the end of the day, the Americans has the fastest drag Hondas in the world. Boo hoo!

Mivek40

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

My Favourite Evo IIIs are in New Zealand

http://ignitionmagazine.co.nz/feature/12
Zoheb Razak 8.63s

http://ignitionmagazine.co.nz/feature/30
Andre Simon 8.78s

Friend's Car : Danny (Brunei)


Danny's Honda NSX is one of his toy car collection. Simple and clean. A few bolt-on products inside his engine bay. He recently bought a 6,000 BND titanium muffler system for his NSX. The aerokit and rims are coming soon. Nothing comes cheap for the NSX.


Danny's family car the Mitsubishi Airtrek. Damd bodykit front with Ralliart rear, Greddy intercooler, SSR Type-C rims, Project Mu 355mm 4 Pot calipers and more. I will update more when he decides to send me more pix and more of his car collection.

Friend's Car : Izrin (Malaysia)

There you go. The rims on his Perodua Kelisa. Simple yet nose-bleed.

Monday, April 23, 2007

Used Honda B-Series Type-R Retainers - Delayed Posting


Since i got the request from my brother, thought i wanna just upload the pix to complete his Type-R valve terrain kit. Im not gonna be technical on this, retainers are very important and you should use the correct thickness and size. I noticed ppl love mixing Crower retainers with Jun springs and Jun retainers with Toda springs and other more claimed-to-be-okay combinations. Aftermarket retainers are better than conventional retainers which designed to suit specific engine requirements.

Maybe they should stop and think for a second why there are so many varieties of retainers in the market in the 1st place. Why they made it in such a way where the key factors of material used, thickness, weight and size to be look upon especially monkeying at 9000rpm.

You figure it out, im hungry.

Mivek40

Myth NOT Busted!



Shit happened. This is something i didnt expect although i know the consequences of pouring a hot water in a cold glass scenario. It happened last Friday while i was driving home on the highway. Before that my car was parked in the open-air from dawn till dusk. I felt the blistering heat last week when i heard some engine knocking on my car a day before the incident. Basically it was a fucken hot week.

It blew on my face in a split second and i didnt realise it. I can see glass splinters everywhere but the windscreen didnt break and fall on me due to the windscreen lamination. I was using the original Mitsubishi single layer laminated glass (oldschool). After a few seconds i had to slow down my car and drive all the way home with speed from 110km/h to 70km/h. You may think im crazy to drive that speed but on the way home, i can see the dark storm building up. So i had to either speed or be a blind bat under the dinosaur rain. I had no time to panic instead i dashed all the way home and parked under the shade. I had to remove the bloody PIAA wipers for precaution to avoid swiping on broken glasses. The rain came and pour salt on the wound. It was hard to drive alone guessing the traffics.

I made a few calls to my buddies and made an appointment on Saturday to fix a new windscreen glass. It took less than 1 hour to install the new windscreen and definitely a lot of money.

Im using the original Proton double layer windscreen now. It comes with this greenish light tint on the top. The repair guy taught me to differenciate between double and single layer. According to him, now i can full throttle in the track without to worry windscreen shattering due to stone chips.

Due to this mishap, it demoralised me when i had plans to do the necessary for the upcoming race.

God willings, if everything goes well, i'll be at the track. If not, theres always the next race.

Mivek40

Things to learn : Get your screen cool down before turning the aircon.

Cost : Less than 1K including labour charges.

Thanks : To all the friends that helped me during that 2 days.

Custom Intake Manifold & Throttlebody

The faster you go, the more air and fuel you need to feed your engine. Some say "the stock manifold is enoughhhhhhhhhhhh alreadyyyy...." or ratherly, cut the intake and bore its limits. Typically said and done which you have heard and seen locally. We all know things are being calculated and designed precisely with a reason. The reason is to go faster and win.

If you are a HPI or DSport fanatic, i believe Hypertune intakes and throttlebodies are normal to you. Somehow or rather, i think Hypertune products are the nicest. I have seen many intakes made from different metalworks shop, even JUN doesnt come this neat and prolly cheaper than JUN.

Im not being absurd, if i have a need to go faster plus the right amount of budget, this is on my wishlist automatically.

http://www.hypertune.net

Mivek40

Friday, April 13, 2007

Red Ceramic Coating?

I get many queries about my headers especially the coating part. Well, i did DIY on it and its a long and slow process. It would have turn out well if i had a little bit of time. Then again, its a learning process and maybe next time if i have another opportunity to do it again, it should be alright.

Why is it red? There was only Chevrolet Orangy Red available on the shelf and i got no other choices. They should bring more colours for me to fool around, hehe.

Just to sum-up :
(1) Krylon Rust-Tough Primer (1 Spray Can) -
http://www.krylon.com/
(2) Duplicolor Engine Enamel With Ceramic 500F (1 Spray Can) -
http://www.duplicolor.com/
(3) Ace 100 Grit Sandpaper Sponge (3 Pieces)
(4) Water Bucket (For Water Sanding Process)
(5) Clean Towels (3-5 Pieces)
(6) Used Newspapers

The varieties available in Krylon and Duplicolor catalogs are superb. Check it out!

DIYs can be cheap and fun :
  • If you buy the right product and do it once.
  • If you pay more for a better quality brand that last longer.
  • If you have spare time and avoid mobile phone distraction.
  • If you dont rush and work in time pace.
  • If you wear proper safety goggles and face mask.

Mivek40

Thursday, April 12, 2007

Heatshield Products - Insulation Wrap




I got myself a box of Heatshield Products insulation wrap for headers and exhaust. I wanted to get the black coloured from DEI but the price was double of Heatshield Products. The black coating on the wrapper makes it expensive.

With limited range and stock we have here in Malaysia, so i settled with Heatshield Products at the end of the day. At first i wanted to wrap my header then i had a changed of plan and decided to wrap the mid section until the muffler. The box comes with 50 feet length of wrap and 2 inches wide. I have an extra of 15 feet left.

Heatshield Products - http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/

DEI - http://designengineering.com/

Mivek40

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Since Good Things Are Hard To Get....

1) Patience. All you need to do is wait and stick your main plan. You cant go wrong if you stick to your plans. If you start being fickle then everything you do is not enough. Do you have a list and propose budget? If no, better start and paste on the damn wall. It will tell you what to do. Have a set goal in mind. It may take months and years, but at least you complete your dream.

2) Shut-up. You need to wakeup early in the morning, go around and start looking for parts that you want. You cant be hanging out all day and night on online forums and expect to find good things online. You cant be waking up at 2pm and expect the fresh goods to smell like hot buns. Dont expect to make miracle calls to friends since friends are calculative these days (yeah baby, we have a list of these monkeys). So, get your ass out and find out whats fresh from the containers. This way you will eliminate 3rd-party monkeys.

3)Price War. If you compare the prices now and before it would definitely be different. Dont play cars if you want to make money. Start buying houses and lands from now on. Market prices are controlled by the buyers actually. Its the people that made it expensive not the sellers. Prices are governed by enthusiats. If you start to ask about dead mummies, it will cost you a fortune and so do JDM rims. Are you willing to pay like the Americans?

Mivek40

List Of Modifications Done - March 2007

Time really flies. Im supposed to update my mods last month but i dont really have time to compile them and the worst part i have forgotten to take pix during the mods (too excited as usual). So i had to snap the pix after the mods process and sort them out. I took 2 months break in January and February from modding and now im back in action.

After reading my past postings, i reckoned its high time i update about my personal mods. If i had a Honda prolly the list is long, but since i dont have one like my brother, its one hell of a slow process especially with limited parts. So i hope i didnt dissapoint any Mivec-goers or 4G9X fanatics. Hee hee hee. Backyard Special is slow, low budget and definitely special.

(1) Used TopFuel Air-Intake From A Honda EG-6

All these while i have been using the stock factory air-box with Proton replacement filter kit. I have been waiting for many months for a nice TopFuel air-intake system and i managed to find one. The best thing about it that it comes in black colour. The earlier models came with red colour with a TopFuel logo stamped on it. Nowadays they just stick the damn sticker on it. I decided not to get the DC2 model due to the fact its not plastic. Steel and aluminium absorbs heat especially cooking in the engine bay plus under hot sun. To heat wrap is definitely ugly. HKS SPF and Apexi Power Intake was my 2nd option on the list but due to too many bad reviews on filteration test, i had to forget about them. Im not saying its bad, but if you have money and plans to change every 3-6 months, why not?.


(2) Used Mitsubishi EVO III 4WD Fuel Tank This is my 3rd fuel tank.

The original one came with the car and cant be used due to the fact it was meant for carburators. My 2nd tank was from a CA4A Mivec which was suited for my fuel injection engine and bolt-on installation during the hybrid two years ago. This 4WD tank was meant to clear my 2.5 exhaust system. With the current fuel tank, i'll scrape every roadkills on the road especially below the fuel tank section. So i had to dump the old tank. 4WD tanks are aplenty but you need to scout for a good one. Undented, non-rusted inside and outside and complete with the electrical holder mounts are hard to get, no joke and not cheap. My Walbro 255LPH fuel pump was a plug-&-play into the new tank.

(3) New 2.5" Mild Steel Piping, Center Box And Muffler

When it comes to exhaust system, i think there are so many school of thoughts. People like to copy others, believe whatever the rest is doing to make life simpler for decision making. The key to this exhaust system in layman is power. If you dont have power to push, forget about using bigger pipes. Its not about fancy and style, but more to killing your performance. I have been using 2" exhaust system for the last 2 years. The top end power struggle is bad for my performance. Im choking when the power needs to be released out. My old 2" system do not even have a midbox and when it comes to resonation, its bad. Coupled with a 5Zigen Border 304, its a neighbours' nightmare. So i decided to jump to 2.5" brand new setup. I actually scouted for used EK-9 complete systems but most of them are either scraped or rusted or too small for my likings which is 2.3". I was hoping for a complete AMUSE titanium exhaust but none to be found. I found a complete BuddyClub Racing Spec-II but it was rusted and beyond DIY fix. My new setup is complete mild steel 2.5" piping, custom mid box with custom muffler. I bought a box of Heatshield Products heat wrap and wrapped the pipings underneath the fuel tank. Not that i dont like stainless steel, but stainless steel will crack in time. Mild steel is the way to go for street application and cheaper.

4) Used Australian RPW 4-1 Full Race Header

I have to say this proverb again, "good things comes to those who wait". I had a week to go before buying a brand new R3 4-1 race header when someone mentioned about this Australian RPW toy. At first it may sound unreal since i never seen it before in real life but i managed to check it out and bought it with a big smile. To be honest, the best part about it, its mild steel. So less worry about long term cracking business. Secondly, the collector is 2.5" and so fucken big. I could shove a fat rat inside it. I thought ITR and TODA collectors were big for B-series Honda and i was definitely wrong. Honestly, if you dont have power, this header might just kill you at your low end. So everything has to come inline. The ground clearance is bad especially when you stay in a country with many street humps everywhere.


How much did it cost me? (prices after discounts and excluding labour charges)

(1) The used air-intake = RM350 + Brand new silicon reducer = RM120

(2) The used fuel tank = RM300

(3) The new piping+midbox+muffler = RM700 + Brand new heat wrap= RM170

(4) The used 4-1 header = RM1100

Grand Total = RM2740 (Its around RM3XXX in total with labour and hidden charges)

The rest are more to come. Stay tuned.

Mivek40

Monday, April 09, 2007

Izrin's Trip To Singapore : Brand New Rims

Last weekend Izrin went to Singapore instead of watching the F1 at home. He had to show me what he got from Singapore. Ha ha ha.

Mivek40


Friday, April 06, 2007

CUSCO Hood Lock

http://mivek4doddle.blogspot.com/2006/04/product-evaluation-cusco-hood-lock.html
I just realise the date today that it has been a year since i installed them.
The reason im blogging it again is to let you guys know my Cusco Lock started to fall apart.

My findings :
(a) The passenger's side nut came off from the bolt on the radiator bar.
[I suspect the hard engine mounts and the suspension might caused it to shake and drop]

(b) The driver's side hood lock side started to jam.
[I suspect rust building inside the key mechanism due to water]

My solution:
(a) Remove the nuts and bolts on the radiator bar.
(b) Leave the top hood locks, unless i want water to sip in and drip on my headlights.

My conclusion :
(a) I had enough of hood pins and locks for the time being.
(b) If you decide to buy one, park your car under shade areas at all times.

Mivek40